Madeira isn't your typical destination for lazy days lounging between the beach and the swimming pool. With few natural beaches, mostly artificial and with sand imported from the Sahara, Madeira beckons to the adventurous at heart.

This island is a realm of exploration, where the intricate network of levadas, historic irrigation channels, unveils hiking trails that lead to breathtaking landscapes. Madeira's weather can be unpredictable, making it wise to pack a waterproof jacket and a few extra layers, especially if you're venturing into the mountainous terrains.

Driving in Madeira can be a challenge, especially given the steep terrain, even in Funchal, the island's main city. Forget about getting anywhere on foot rather than by car or public transport.

We chose to rent a car from Funchal Rent a Car for our Madeira journey, at a cost of around 100 euros for a small car over five days. The car, although showing signs of wear, reflected the island's road conditions. Our recommendation is to opt for a compact car, given the narrow roads and scarce parking in towns, and ensuring you're covered with insurance is advisable.

Despite being an island, Madeira surprised us with reasonable prices for accommodations and dining. We secured a spacious flat for six nights at just 150 euros for two people.

For budget-friendly meals, we recommend exploring local supermarkets such as Continente, where you can find a variety of affordable local food and produce.

For a week in Madeira, you have various options. You could opt for a balanced approach, spending two or three nights in the north of the island, then another two or three nights in the south. Alternatively, you may prefer the convenience of a central base, eliminating the need for constant packing and unpacking. In our case, we selected Santana as our home base for exploring Madeira. 

Santana boasts a strategic location, situated within a 50-minute drive from essential destinations such as the must-see points on the east of the island, the city of Funchal, and the airport. Even for excursions to the west of the island, with thoughtful itinerary planning such as the one suggested in this article, travel time from Santana remains quite reasonable. Santana provides comprehensive amenities, including petrol stations, supermarkets, authentic eateries, and an added attraction – the traditional houses of Madeira, a free tourist site worthy of multiple visits during your stay. Another appealing option is the town of Sao Vincente, which shares the same advantages as Santana and offers the added charm of being nestled by the sea. It's a location we're considering for our next visit to Madeira.

Madeira unfolds its spectacular beauty right from the moment you touch down on the island. As the plane descends, passengers seated on the right side during arrival and the left side during departure are treated to breathtaking views of the rugged cliffs of São Lourenço headland.

Madeira Airport often earns the reputation of being one of the world's most challenging airports, and it's not without reason. The runway is constructed above a precipice, supported by colossal pylons. Upon landing, pilots navigate along the edge of São Lourenço before executing a 90-degree turn to align with the runway. The proximity of houses to the runway creates a thrilling sensation during the landing experience.

When departing the airport en route to the northern part of the island, follow a road that passes beneath the runway, adding an extra touch of intrigue to your Madeira adventure.

On this first day in Madeira, we recommend starting with a unique hike to the Miradouro de Ponta do Furado on the southern tip of São Lourenço. This distinct red, scorched-earth promontory, visible during your landing, provides a breathtaking panorama of the island's southern and eastern shores. It's a remarkable beginning to your 5-day exploration of Madeira!

This hike is fairly easy. The variation in altitude is gentle and the signage is clear along the path. From the car park, it takes around two hours to walk to the Ponta do Furado viewpoint, at a relaxed pace. 

This scenic hike treats you to breathtaking views of the São Lourenço headland, characterized by its distinctive contours, and provides glimpses of Porto Santo island, along with the uninhabited islands dotting the southern expanse of Madeira.

We embarked on this journey during an early afternoon of May, greeted by perfect weather—28 degrees Celsius, a vast expanse of clear blue sky, and a pleasantly moderate number of fellow hikers along the trail. The entire excursion, encompassing the journey to the viewpoint and back, took four hours.

What made this hike particularly enchanting was its distinctive character. Unlike the verdant forest and mountainous terrains that define other must-do hikes in Madeira, the trek to the tip of São Lourenço unfolded along a cliff face and rocky ground, devoid of dense vegetation.

Once you've finished with the hike, head to Santana to visit Madeira's traditional houses. There are very few traditional houses left on the island, and those in Santana serve primarily as a showcase for visitors. One of the houses is home to a souvenir shop where you can taste the famous Poncha, Madeira's traditional drink made from passion fruit and rum. 

Parking can be tricky in Santana, so be prepared to drive around the town to squeeze into a small parking space along a narrow street.

Start by driving towards Ponta Delgada, a small seaside town with a breathtaking view of the steep, green cliffs of Madeira's north face, which you can admire by stopping at the Miradouro da Beira da Quinta.

Continue onto the town of Sao Vincente to see the chapel perched on top of a hill, the capelinha de Nossa Senhora de Fátima, and the town’s old streets. We recommend stopping at Café Estoril, for a tasty sandwich made of traditional bread and with a lovely view on Matriz de São Vincente church.

Our itinerary continues to one of the island's most beautiful viewpoints, the miradouro do veu da noiva. From this observation platform you can witness a breathtaking waterfall descending the cliffs, creating a mesmerizing natural spectacle as it meets the sea.

Then head down to Seixal beach, which is around twenty minutes away by car. This beach is famous for its black sand and for being at the foot of the cliffs. However, we found it quite difficult to access. The car park is very small and therefore very quickly saturated. The beach is also smaller than we imagined. To get the most out of your visit to Seixal beach, we recommend getting there at sunrise.

The next stop on this itinerary is much easier to access. Drive to the spectacular pebble beach of Ribeira da Janela. From the beach, you can admire the jagged black cliffs. If you've ever been to Iceland or Tenerife, this place might look familiar to you.

Our next destination is the charming town of Porto Moniz, renowned for its natural pools.

Porto Moniz offers two sets of natural pools—one free and the other requiring an entrance fee. Opting for the free pool, we enjoyed a refreshing swim, as the paid pool was closed due to strong waves on the day of our visit. Admission to the paid pools is priced at 3 euros.

To locate the free pools, simply head towards the Cachalote restaurant in Porto Moniz, and you'll easily spot them. The water in these natural pools is cool, hosting a few fish, while blue and red crabs inhabit the cliffs. Exercise caution with your fingers! Positioned by the pools, you'll experience the exhilaration of waves crashing against the black rocks that define the natural pool's perimeters.

After a refreshing swim, our route continues to the Achadas da cruz cable car. Unfortunately, it was closed for repairs at the time of our visit. Nevertheless, the departure point of the cable car offers a beautiful view of the cliffs and the small village of Achadas da Cruz (only 160 inhabitants).

Proceed to the Fanal Pond forest, renowned for its uniquely shaped trees and its perpetual veil of mysterious fog. During our visit, the weather was splendid, denying us the chance to experience the distinctive atmosphere that the fog creates. Nonetheless, the site is a must-visit, primarily for its enchanting grove of contorted trees.

After spending most of the day criss-crossing Madeira's north coast by car, apart from a short swimming break at Porto Moniz, we suggest finishing the day with an easy hike to stretch your legs. Drive toward the Levada das 25 Fontes hike car park and then aim for the Lagoa do Vento hike.

This hike, which includes a long break at the waterfall, took us just under 2,5 hours to complete and is very accessible. To reach it from the car park, you have to walk down a tarmac road, which is the least pleasant part of the hike. However, once in the forest, the path is straightforward to follow and leads deep into the laurel forest to the waterfall and its pool. It's possible to swim there, but the water is very cold, and you'll be sharing the space with frogs.

Fun fact - On the way back to Santana, while driving at night in the fog, we were surprised by a waterfall that cascaded directly onto the road. It was a natural surprise that startled us at the time, but we revisited it later in the week, this time during the day. This is how surprising Madeira can be!

This third day in Madeira was expected to be rainy and cool, so we decided to dedicate it to visiting the island's largest city, Funchal. We thought that in the event of heavy rain, we could always find shelter in a café or in the market halls.

Start your visit to Funchal by taking the cable car to the Botanical Gardens, where hibiscus, bougainvillea, cactus, and palm trees are on display, and offering a breathtaking view of the city.

To get there, you have to take two different cable cars. The first takes you up to Monte, and then another to the garden.

The price is 34 euros per person for a visit to the garden, including the return cable car ride.

Once back from the garden, stroll around the shopping streets of Funchal. If you visit Funchal in May, you'll find that the flower festival is in full swing. The city center is decorated with flower carpets and sculptures, and several parades are organised to mark the festivities.

Make a culinary stop at Fabrica Santo Antonio for a tasting of freshly baked Queijada and pastel de nata, then head to Mercado dos Lavradores, a covered market hall where you can find souvenirs and exotic fruit. Be careful; the fruits are as tasty as they look but also very expensive!

After a good half-day in Funchal, drive up to the Cabo Girão viewpoint, located a 15-minute drive west of Funchal. 

A transparent platform allows you to enjoy the view of the coast, the expanse of Funchal and Madeira's incredible terrain. The view from Cabo Girão is simply breathtaking!

After Cabo Girão, continue towards the lovely little town of Porto Santo, where you can enjoy a swim. Be careful, however, as parking spaces are scarce. 

Continue along the Banana Road, which begins just after Porto Santo and gets its name from the many banana trees on either side of the road.

On this road is the Anjos waterfall, which falls directly onto the road and the cars passing by. To see this waterfall, park directly on the side of the road. There are always visitors around the waterfall, so drive slowly. We took advantage of this stop to cool off quickly at the waterfall. The water was quite warm, much to our surprise.

To round off the day, we recommend dinner not far from the waterfall at the Taberna Madalena do mar. For sunset, head back towards Porto Santo. There is a hole in the cliff just before you enter the town. It can be reached via a stone staircase that runs alongside the road. Great photos guaranteed at any time of day.

This fourth day on Madeira begins with one of the island's most popular hikes, the Levada das 25 fontes.

The Levada are irrigation canals found all over the island. These canals were built from the 16th century onwards to bring water from the interior to the exterior of the island.

It's advisable to get there early as this is one of the most beautiful walks on the island, and is therefore very busy. We went at around 9 am, and the footpath was already quite busy. You'll come across groups of walkers who, believe it or not, pay 32 euros to do the walk with a guide. We did it without a guide, like many walkers, without any problems. The path is well signposted and easy to follow, as it runs alongside the watercourse created by the Levada. There are no tricky sections, and the walk is very accessible, even for children. The main challenge here is passing other walkers as the path is quite narrow. Sometimes you have to climb up on the edge of the Levada to let other walkers pass.

The walk takes around 3 - 4 hours if you walk at a relaxed pace, and end at the famous semi-circular waterfall. You then have to return along the same path. It is possible to extend the route by taking another path along the Levada do Risco or towards Lagoa do Vento, where we were on day 2.

We loved this green hike, along the water, in the middle of the Lauriferous forest. Unfortunately, this type of forest now only exists on the islands of Madeira, the Azores, Cape Verde, and the Canaries. They once covered the whole of Europe. Some trees are estimated to be nearly 800 years old. Madeira's forest covers almost 15,000 hectares and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

To round off the day, drive to the western tip of the island to admire the sunset from the Ponta do Pargo lighthouse.

This new day in Madeira begins with another hike along a Levada and to another incredible waterfall. This was our favorite hike during our travels around Madeira. Welcome to the Levada do Caldeirao Verde.

It's recommended to arrive early in the morning, preferably before 9 am, to find convenient parking and experience tranquility on the hiking trail. Similar to the levada from the previous day, this levada is highly popular on the island, attracting several groups of hikers with a guide daily. We arrived early, around 9 am, and encountered the typical foggy weather of Madeira. We enjoyed strolling through this damp, misty forest, accompanied by the soothing sound of waterfalls in the background.

The beginning of the walk is a 20-minute drive from Santana. The road leading to the start of the hike is quite narrow and winds along a mountainside. At the trailhead, you'll find a café and restroom facilities (along with numerous cats!) for a brief pause before or after the hike.

It took us approximately 2 hours to reach the Caldeiro Verde waterfall, as we took our time to capture photos along the way. Upon reaching the waterfall, we lingered to appreciate the natural pool. We cherished the ambiance created by the mist and the waterfall that appeared to emerge from the clouds.

The hike passes through several tunnels. We were a bit worried as we didn't invest in any headlamp, however we managed to go through with the light from our smartphones and being extra careful and it was just fine.

After completing the hike, we ascended to Pico do Arieiro to get an early glimpse of the trail we intended to tackle the next day. Although the view was partially obscured by clouds, we managed to discern the starting point of the route.

The summit of Pico do Arieiro (1818m) is conveniently reachable by a well-maintained road. A 10-minute walk from the parking lot brings you to one of the initial observation platforms in the mountains and the commencement of the PR1 hiking trail leading to the summit of Pico Ruivo.

To conclude the day, we suggest returning to the Sao Lourenço headland for the sunset, a place we've been eager to revisit since the beginning of our journey. Navigate toward the Miradouro da Luna on the headland, offering an incredible vantage point for viewing the São Lourenço tip.

We've kept the best for last on this itinerary. This day is dedicated to the PR1 hike between the summits of Pico do Arieiro and Pico Ruivo.

Up at 5 am, we reached the summit of Pico do Arieiro just before 7 am to witness the sunrise from the beginning of PR1 and commence the hike at a relaxed pace. The light was extraordinary, and we observed the sun piercing through the sea of clouds blanketing Madeira Island that day. Some of the more adventurous hikers choose to traverse the trail at night to reach the top of Pico Ruivo by sunrise.

The weather conditions were perfect that day, but as a precaution we wore several layers, including a Gore Tex jacket, keeping in mind that on a mountain hike on an island in the middle of the ocean, the weather can change quickly!

The hike takes around 6 hours if you take your time. It passes through several tunnels, starts with stairs and ends with stairs. In short, there's a lot of walking and stairs climbing. Better warm up those knees! 

It's rated as difficult, and the comments we'd read while looking for information on this walk had put us off a little. Nevertheless, we decided to give it a go.

It takes around two and a half hours to walk to the summit of Pico Ruivo. You first have to descend the Pico do Arieiro via a long staircase, then cross the valley and two tunnels before beginning the ascent to the summit of Pico Ruivo. If you take your time, and have a good supply of water, this hike remains at an accessible level for occasional hikers like us. The most difficult part for us was the last staircase to go back to the summit of Pico Do Arieiro, at the very end of the hike. This part was hard just because our legs were already quite tired and these were the last steps in a long series. 

Along the way, we saw hikers of all levels, with and without hiking equipment.

For us, this hike is a must-do in Madeira, as well as being a physical challenge for some. The view from the summit of Pico Ruivo (1861 m above sea level) is breathtaking and well worth the climb up and back. The summit of Pico Ruivo is often above a sea of clouds, but when it's not, it offers a 360-degree observation platform over Madeira and the immensity of the Atlantic Ocean.

As our legs felt like jelly after hiking two summits, we indulged in some sun-soaking on one of the beaches near Ponta de São Lourenço, specifically the Praia da Prainha.

On our last day in Madeira, we were determined to make the most of it! We got up early one last time to watch the sunrise from the Miradouro da Luna, near Ponta de São Lourenço. It was a flop though! The weather was too cloudy and we didn't see the sun or its first rays. However, we were able to say goodbye to this incredible place before leaving the island.

We also had a last glass of Poncha in the traditional houses of Santana.

On the return flight, we had one last look at the Ponta de São Lourenço, but above all at Pico Ruivo, which we had climbed the day before, rising above the clouds.